Sunday, October 18, 2009

Roasted Butternut Squash and Sage Gnocchi

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Every time I sit down to a meal of gnocchi, I think of my Nonna. Italian through and through, my Nonna makes the most amazing ricotta gnocchi I have ever eaten. It is so good, that for me to even attempt to make ricotta based gnocchi would be blasphemous and downright ridiculous. I have vivid memories of sitting at her kitchen table, staring incredulously with my young eyes, watching her make and strain the fresh ricotta, laboriously knead the dough together, and roll each and every little ball of deliciousness down the back of her fork. She would call me over from time to time to help her press the ricotta into the cheesecloth, or hold the fork steady for her. Sometimes, I would even get the honor of actually rolling the dough myself, oh the simplicity of pleasing a child! Hand her a ball of ricotta and egg to roll and she will have no need for a new bike or doll.

But oh how I have digressed. Since I can’t compete with my Nonna, I make my gnocchi with other ingredients. As much as I enjoy a light and pillowy potato based gnocchi, I like to experiment with other starchy vegetables and see what the outcome is. The best results I have found come from butternut squash and sweet potato, but if you’re feeling adventurous, try using parsnips or sunchokes. The butternut squash puree in this recipe is extremely versatile; I use it for ravioli, mix it into finished risotto and there have even been a few instances where I have been caught eating it off a spoon. Gnocchi sometimes get a bad rep and it’s true that at times the results are dense and unappetizing, but you just have to live and learn. Everyone has made culinary errors, even those of us who have been trained to avoid doing so. I find the best results come from dough that is Just at the point of no longer being sticky, and it just takes a little trial and error to find that balance. Since butternut squash is abounding right now at local markets (69 cents per pound, oh my!), go out and grab one and give this recipe a try. You will be so pleased with yourself and your friends and family will be so impressed that you know how to make the ever-elusive gnocchi.

Roasted Butternut Squash and Sage Gnocchi

For the butternut squash puree:
1 medium butternut squash, peeled, seeded and cut into large chunks
2 tbls extra virgin olive oil
Kosher salt
4 sprigs of fresh sage, stems discarded

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Place butternut squash chunks on rimmed baking sheet, drizzle with 1 tbs olive oil and sprinkle with ½ tsp salt. Place on middle rack and cook for about 45 minutes, or until bottoms are browned and squash is fork tender. Let cool for 10 minutes. Place squash, sage and remaining tbs olive oil in food processor and blend until squash is pureed, adding a tiny bit of water if needed. Season to taste. It’s important for the squash to stay as dry as possible here. You should have about 2 cups of puree, set one aside and save the other for another use. In an airtight container, it will last a week in the fridge or several months in the freezer.

For Gnocchi:
1 cup butternut squash and sage puree
1-1 ½ cups of all purpose flour, plus more if needed for sprinkling
1/2 tsp kosher salt
4 tbs unsalted butter
2 sprigs of fresh sage, leaves removed and chopped
¼ cup grated parmesan cheese

Place puree and salt in a medium bowl and add flour, ½ cup at a time, mixing gently until flour is Just incorporated. Depending on the tesxture of the squash you may need less flour then called for. Once you get to 1 cup of flour, place the dough on a floured flat surface and knead gently, feeling for stickiness. The dough should be just barely sticky, almost to the point of smoothness. Divide dough into three portions and gently roll into 8 inch long logs, sprinkling with flour if needed. Cut each log into 1 inch pieces, dipping ends into flour if sticky. If you have a gnocchi paddle, roll each piece down to create the ridged shape. If no gnocchi paddle, have no fear! I don't have a lot of specialized equipment and I learned how to roll gnocchi with a fork. Using back of fork, roll gnocchi down, using your thumb to press lightly in the middle and then roll ends together. Place gnocchi on rimmed baking sheet sprinkled with flour and place in freezer for at least ½ hour.

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Bring large pot of water to boil over high heat and remove gnocchi from freezer. Drop gnocchi into boiling water, in two batches if the pot is too small to hold all of them without crowding. While gnocchi cook, prepare sauce. In a medium sauté pan over medium heat, add butter and melt. Once foaming subsides and butter starts to brown, add chopped sage and cook another minute. Remove from heat to prevent butter from burning. Once the gnocchi rise to the top of the water, allow to cook for two more minutes, then remove with slotted spoon to sauce, and swirl to coat evenly. Distribute among bowls or plates and sprinkle with parmesan. Serves 4 side dish portions or 2 main dish portions.

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