Friday, December 18, 2009

The Sweetest Biscuits

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I must admit; I don’t particularly care for biscuits. Yes, let the hate mail commence. I know they are as American as apple pie and that no stew is quite right without them. I have just never found them all that special. They always taste chemically to me and the baking soda that is so necessary for them to rise always taste so strong and off-putting. Plus, more often than not they come out dense and heavy and I would much rather take up valuable stomach space with something that doesn’t remind me of a hockey puck, thank you very much. Considering my unabashed love for all things bread, this has never boded well that I can’t seem to enjoy a good old fashioned biscuit.

Then I discovered the sweet potato biscuit. Oh my how I came around to the biscuit party after my first taste of one of these. Light, fluffy melt on your tongue sweet potato goodness masquerading as my long time nemesis. I was sold. Over the years, I have tried my fair share of sweet potato biscuit recipes, eventually creating one I thought trumped all about a year ago. Then this past summer when I was working for America’s Test Kitchen, I tested recipes for sweet potato biscuits and a new one emerged that far surpassed my previous winner. A perfect companion for any soup or stew, or for simply smothering with apple butter or strawberry preserves, which is pretty much how I end up eating the entire batch over a period of a couple hours. Hey, they are made with sweet potatoes after all, so they’re good for you.

Sweet Potato Biscuits
Adapted from America’s Test Kitchen, Cook’s Country Magazine

5 medium sweet potatoes
2 Tbs apple cider vinegar
3 ¼ cups cake flour
¼ packed brown sugar
5 tsp baking powder
½ tsp baking soda
1 ½ tsp kosher salt
8 Tbs cold unsalted butter, cut into ½ inch pieces
4 Tbs cold vegetable shortening

Prick potatoes all over with fork. Microwave on large plate until potatoes are soft and surface is wet, 15 to 20 minutes, flipping every 5 minutes. Cut slit in potatoes to release the steam. When cool enough to handle, scoop flesh into bowl and mash until smooth. Reserve 2 cups worth and save leftover for another use. Stir in vinegar and refrigerate until cool, about 20 minutes.

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Line rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Pulse flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt, chilled butter, and shortening in food processor until mixture resembles coarse meal. Transfer to bowl with cooled potatoes and fold with rubber spatula until incorporated.

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Turn dough out onto floured surface and knead until smooth, 8 to 10 times. Pat dough into 9-inch circle, about 1 inch thick. Using 2¼-inch biscuit cutter dipped in flour, cut out biscuits and arrange on prepared baking sheet. Pat remaining dough into 1-inch-thick circle and cut out remaining biscuits. Bake until golden brown, 18 to 22 minutes. Let cool 15 minutes. Makes 16 biscuits.

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